After flying across North America and the Pond, we arrived in London
Heathrow with an hour to meet our connecting flight to Edinburgh. Rushing through Immigration and Customs we discover the weather is so bad that our flight is delayed for several hours. Stuck with a few hours on our hands the six of us sat in a pub and enjoyed a meal and a pint. On the TV screens we watched coverage of the rained out Ryder Cup; standing water on the fairways, rivulets on the greens and blasting winds. So began our trip to Scotland. Cheryl and I are traveling with members of the
ATTA heading to
Aviemore, Scotland for the Adventure Travel and Trade World Summit. Cheryl is the official event photographer and I am just a volunteer. It just so happens there is a marathon the day before the Summit in a small town thirty minutes north of
Aviemore; the
Baxters Loch Ness Marathon. It runs pretty much the length of Loch
Ness.
After a great meal we make our way to the gate and catch the short flight to Edinburgh. At this point Cheryl and I broke off from our travel partners to head out to
Inverness for a day of exploration and preparation for the Sunday race. We left the airport riding in a double-
decker bus to the train station. The half-hour trip was our introduction to Scotland. We sat up front on the top level to take it all in. We saw amazing old world architecture mixed with modern lines and materials.
We experienced firsthand the adventure of driving the narrow roads. Our arrival at the train station was announced by a whiplash U-turn followed by a staccato parking job. The bus emptied quickly and folks scattered in all directions: some heading to the station, others along the stone sidewalks and still more down stairs leading to the nearby castle. Cheryl and I made our way to the station and booked out train to
Inverness. We grabbed a small bite while we waited in the station. Out tickets guided us to the proper platform for the train and we were surprised to find it already there and ready to depart. We boarded, stowed our bags and found seats for the four hour ride through the night. The train departed five minutes early into the evening. About forty-five minutes later the conductor made his way to our car and requested our tickets. We dug them out of our pockets and presented them only to hear, “You are on the wrong train.” In the country for only a few hours and we are already on the wrong train. We explained that the reader-board said
Inverness and he confirmed that this trail will eventually end up in
Inverness. It just takes a much longer route and stops at every town along the way. The more direct train left five minutes after the train we were on from the other tracks on the same platform. Oops. Yes, we would end up in
Inverness but several hours later than expected. Now, we had booked a quaint B&B in town with a late check in time of 9 pm. The weather delay meant we would not arrive until close to nine. Now with our train blunder we would not arrive until roughly 1 am. I was becoming concerned about reaching our destination and not being able to get in.
We arrived as scheduled in
Inverness. The town was mostly closed down and asleep sans the pubs. A few taxis waited outside the station for fares and random folks exiting pubs dotted the streets and sidewalks. We were not sure about the distance to the B&B and debated if we should take a taxi. The driver, hearing the address said if we
didn’t mind a few stairs, it would only be a few minutes’ walk. We thanked him and made our way through the night. The rough
hewn stone stairs were not too bad and soon we were at the top standing in an intersection analyzing our map in an effort to get orientated. A very friendly rather drunk man approached and offered assistance. We said he was walking home from the pub and was going our way. We found out that he and his wife, who by the way loves Americans, were married in San Francisco. We found the correct road;
Southside. But we could not find the house, until another gentleman who was sober got us pointed in the correct direction. We parted with our new drunk friend and found 20
Southside Rd. The front door was cracked open allowing access to the foyer. We clicked the buzzer and were quickly greeted by a groggy teenage boy who kindly greeted us, took our orders for breakfast and showed us to our room. It was 1:15 in the morning. And we were asleep quickly. (Please take time to visit their site at:
www.atholdene.com)
The
next morning we awoke still tired from the previous days’ adventures with planes, trains and…
buses. Breakfast was served in the main dining area downstairs. Cheryl had
porage and I had a traditional Scottish meal of eggs, ham, sausage and black pudding. It was a heavy and calorie rich plate. Freddy, the man of the house, said he would tell me what was in the pudding after I had finished eating. It was more like a paddy of black oatmeal, onion and spices fried in bacon fat. But there was a more
gamey flavor there that I
couldn’t quite make out. Later I found out that was the pigs’ blood. Yep, that's the flavor I couldn't place. Here is a view of the front of the B&B.
Out the door and to the marathon check in. We made our way back through town, now in the daylight, to
Bungth Park located in the center of
Inverness.
The River
Ness quietly bisects the town and provides for wonderful
Atlantic salmon fishery. Above are a few shots of guys fly fishing in the traditional
spey style.
Marathon check-in was just like any other check-in where you are asked to
show you entry info, check you name off the list, get your packet and confirm the correct race number. It was interesting being around runners from different countries. It wasn't all that different from races in the states, just different languages. The rest of the day was spent walking around the town. We stumbled on a small church hosting a wedding seen here with a few nervous gents outside,
found a local shopping area with a butcher shop and even a "pound" store,
and the local fire department (unfortunately they were out on a call).
Later in the afternoon we found a friendly taxi man who drove us the seven windy pasture lined miles to Loch
Ness.
As evening approached the city began to light up and present Cheryl with more photographic opportunities.
Our day done and
souvenirs bought, we
arranged to meet up with our group at a local pub; The Castle Pub. They rented a car and wanted to drive up to have dinner. It was a late night full of laughter and stories.
Marathon day arrived welcomed by overcast skies and a light misty drizzle. Cheryl and I walked to the finish area so she could see me off aboard the awaiting buses and be driven to the start area.
This was the ninth running and it appears they are really getting popular. The Marathon has around three thousand entrants and the other events, 10k, 5k and children's Wee Nessie Run, added an additional couple thousand participants. The drive to the start was a meandering single lane white knuckle adventure. The Highland region was once densely forested long ago but the vast majority of those trees are long gone, used for castles, houses, and fire. The never ending rolling hills are blanketed with pink and white heather and various grasses marked only by the short stone walls and weathered wood post fences with barbed wire. The predominate pasture animal is sheep and there are a lot of them. We look out the bus windows during the drive taking it all in. Even the local folks enjoy the show on our glass movie screens. We spot a few deer, pheasant, shaggy Highland beef and grouse. Farm houses made of stone with slate roofs dot the route tucked in near small stands of trees established near water sources.
The actual start was a straight stretch of typically narrow road with woods on one side and a
clearcut on the other. Yes, there is still logging in Scotland but you can see management in a replanting process. We all unload the buses and pour out onto the road, many vanishing into the woods to attend to personal needs. The announcers
corralled us in, took our clothing bags, lined us up and, just as the pipe band made its way through the hoard to the starting line the, sounded the starting horn. The race began with a few miles of rolling downhill dotted with "pimple" uphills to the shores of Loch
Ness. Holding back a bit, most of the
experienced runners glided through the light rain reserving energy for the secret hills at mile nineteen and twenty. Cheryl and I had discovered the hills the previous day on our excursion to the Loch and the little town of
Dores. As we reached the shore of the Loch
Ness at around mile seven, the clouds broke and the sun triumphantly made its way out. I had studied the course a bit and anticipated a rather level shoreline run what I
didn't expect was the continuation of the rolling hills. This course was a
bugger. Arriving at the eighteen mile mark just a bit behind my goal pace, the real hills began. Mile nineteen stunk, I had to slog (fake running: when you try your hardest to look like you are running so you can mentally say "I didn't walk". That is when the kid on the trike passes you.) the steep parts, and mile twenty was worse. That's where my pace dropped into double digits and I knew I had lost hold of my goal of a 3:45 finish. I knew the hills had done me in but I was still running at at
twenty one, two and three. Having attained the summit of mile twenty the train I was part began the five mile descent into the town of
Inverness. I stayed on a
reasonable pace ticking off the miles doing pace-math and playing the mental games it takes to stay focused. At the twenty five mile mark Cheryl met me and rattled off some shots.
I pushed through he last mile knowing the goal of running under four hours was in jeopardy. I had lost a few valuable minutes in the last couple miles and knew I would have to grit out the last mile to stay under. I crossed the main bridge with the snake of other runners over the River Ness while Cheryl crossed the narrow wooden footbridge downstream. I tried to dig for anything left upping my speed a bit and was then reminded of the last twenty five miles by a golf ball sized cramp in my left calf. It kept me from accelerating as I wished. I found a balance between cramping and speed and made it to the finish. I placed 975th out of 2489, finishing in 4:00:18.
The finish area was very organized and the volunteers took great care to get us our bags, shirts and finish medals, there was even a pint or two to be had.
We found the free showers for a quick rinse, stumbled back to the B&B to collect our bags, hopped aboard a train and headed for
Aviemore for the
ATTA Summit. Arriving in
Aviemore we were greeted, along with delegates from all over the world, by the Visit Scotland tourism board.
Tony